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Monday, March 15, 2004

today is my last day in new mexico. truth or consequences is quite simply the strangest place i've ever been, and not just becuase its named after a tv show (forgive me if i'm repeating myself, blogger wont show my previous posts for some reason today) Its a tiny wee place (6000 people) in the middle of the desert with turtleback mountain on one side (And yes, it does look like a sleeping turtle) There are two main roads with a handful of interesting shops, run down supermarkets and slightly scarey looking bars. It is the site of some hot mineral springs which have been a place of healing since Indian times; these days the town is populated by a mix of rednecks, artists, cowboys, hippies and policeman. This might all sound like a recipe for disaster but its possibly the friendliest place i've ever been too; people stop in the street to say hello, cars let you pass and everything moves real slow; i've totally lost sense of time and space. I planned to do a lot of reading and writing here, but every time i find a quiet spot someone will come up and check i'm ok and start chatting; all the folk i met here have such interesting stories to tell i've given up trying to work and decided to just go with the flow and suck up some inspiration for future use. I feel like i've made some really good friends here at the hostel, theres really a community atmosphere, perhaps its about losing your inhibitions when you're soaking in a hot tub watching shooting stars and listening to coyotes howl.... i've been laughing a lot and sharing food, stories, music and hugs with the women i've met here who are so amazing... i hope i get time to share some details. I did a chi gong course over the weekend too; that was so energising and there was a lot of laughter there too, but not when the teacher talked about 'bringing home your inner smile" oh how american. I lost my cardigan yesterday on the way to the cactus ranch and it turned up hanging on a sign saying 'Gods help is just a prayer away'; its typical my spiritual revelation is to tie knots more tightly round my waist. I hahdnt realised how jaded and cynical i'd become; last week a posse of teenage girls blocked the road when i was walking acatually more a dust track than a road) and i assumed a defensive position; all they wanted to know was where i got my socks from. i climbed to the highest point in town (the painted water tower; this counts as a tourist attraction here) and there was a huge unlit bonfire; my head was filled with the wicker man soundtrack and i felt somehow ashamed, although i had just been told about the friendly local serial killer and the massively hight domestic voilence rates (of course these dont count when the ultra low crime rates are calculated) and there is something hugely surreal about the place. People are always stopping to offer lifts when you walk around; no i havent although i do have a story it will have to wait. I'm getting the middle of the night greyhound to austin; i'm very sad to go but really looking forward to south by south west, If anyone has any suggestions of bands i must see i'd love to know. I can't wait to retox....someone else needs the computer now so i'll say take care, love morag x

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